The Peaceful Backwaters of Kerala

After 14 hours on a train across Southern India, we arrived in the West coast state of Kerala, which appropriately means “land of coconuts”. As I watched the greenery whiz by the open train car door, brightly painted homes and tall palm trees dotted the sides of the railroad. It couldn't look more different from Chennai. In fact, I could have sworn I was back in Vietnam!

When Kristina, Nick, Jenn, and I arrived in the Allapuzzah Train Station, we took a rickshaw towards the Greenpalms Homestay where we had reserved a room for the night. The roads could only take us so far though, as the home was across a river. We loaded into a canoe and helped paddle ourselves to the other side. If the water was a slighter darker shade of brown, I would have been convinced I was in the Mekong Delta again. Luckily, it was not nearly as hot and humid in Kerala. After 3 days in India, I had already grown accustomed to the sweat and dirt, and simply accepted it as a fact of life.

When we arrived at the river bank, we were welcomed into the homes of Thomas, Matthew, and Maria. We were among many other travelers from all over the world- Switzerland, Canada, and Germany, to name a few. Kerala has a very large Christian population, as compared to the Hindu majority in the rest of the country, and outside, we could hear several church services being conducted down the street in the local language, Malayam.

The village was quaint and peaceful, and as we took an exploratory walk along the river, we saw women washing their clothes and men bathing in the water. We followed the iron-orange dirt path through the trees and over bridges, passing smiling children who were running through the saris left to dry on the clotheslines in the sun. This place exuded friendship and community, and Thomas took the time to explain so many aspects of village life and history, from the expansive rice fields to the efficient water irrigation system.

That evening, all of the guests at the homestay were invited on a boat ride through the village. The cool dusk breeze was refreshing as the abrasive sun finally sank below the horizon. As we moved quietly through the waters, Thomas and the locals who were paddling the boat began singing a beautiful traditional folk song that originated in the fields of Kerala before slavery was abolished. When they finished, they asked us to sing folk songs from our respective countries. No one volunteered at first, but after a few minutes of tension, we all broke out into “Don't Stop Believin'!” Not quite a folk song, but it did the trick. It was dark by the time we returned to their home, and we all relaxed for a while before eating the best home cooked meal I have tasted on this trip so far. Even better, in the morning, the mother of the house opened up her kitchen to and gave us all a cooking lesson! I think it's only fair for me to post the recipes for you all. Don't follow the measurements too closely- I was approximating by watching her. I could be pretty off, so use your best judgment!

“Merhukku”

Coconut oil

3 cups Chinese potatoes, sliced 1 cm thick

3 cups coconut, cut into 1 inch pieces

3 stems of curry leaves

1 tbsp turmeric

1 tbsp salt

½ cup red onion, sliced

¼ cup green chili

Pepper to taste

1. In a wok, heat coconut oil

2. Add curry leaves, turmeric, and salt. Stir.

3. Add red onion, green chili, and coconut. Stir 1 minute

4. Add Chinese potato. Stir

5. Cover and simmer 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes

6. Add pepper and stir.

7. Serve over rice

“Thoran”

 

2 tbsp coconut oil

3 cups grated coconut

½ tsp mustard seeds

1/3 cup shallots

1 stem curry leaves

1/3 cup red onion, sliced

¼ cup green chili

2 cups green onions

½ tsp turmeric

1 tbsp salt

1. Heat coconut oil in wok

2. Add mustard seeds and let them pop

3. Add shallots and curry leaves, and stir when shallots have turned golden brown

4. Add green chili and red onions. Stir 1 minute.

5. Add green onions, stir and cover 15 minutes.

6. Add turmeric, salt, and coconut.

7. Serve over rice.

“Fish fry”

 

Medium sized tuna (2 lbs?)

2 tbsp Chili powder

2 tbsp garam masala

1 tbsp turmeric

salt

pepper

1 tbsp garlic and ginger paste

1 cup water

Coconut oil

1 stem curry leaves

1. Mix all spices together and add water to make a paste

2. Cut fish into 2 inch diameter chunks. Wash.

3. Cover fish pieces with pates and marinate for 30 minutes

4. Fry fish in pan of oil with curry leaves.

“Sambar” (vegetable curry)

Can substitute this with pretty much any vegetables you want!

Lentils

Dahl

onion

green chili

papaya

cucumber

tomato

drumstick (looks kind of like an english cucumber)

coriander powder

chili powder

turmeric

coconut

okra

potato

1 tsp asafoetida powder

pinch of fenugreek powder

Add all together, cook over medium heat for ½ hour.

“Papadam”

These are thin pancakes made from kidney beans, and they come packaged like small tortillas.

1. Heat 1 cup coconut oil in small pot.
2. Add one papadam, let fill with air for 45 seconds
3. Use a flat slotted spoon to strain it from the oil before removing.
4. Place in sealed container to cool before serving.

Enjoy! Note: You must eat all of this with your (right) hands or it won't taste nearly as good. I promise.